Oops, I’m doing the trail - again

It’s July and I’m thinking back on my great memories of my Kalalau adventure in May. But it’s not just the fond memories. There’s also an uncomfortable “itch“. The itch of going back and doing it all over again. The itch of imagining myself on the trail and in camp, in my hammock. The itch of visualizing myself having dinner (albeit from a bag) while sitting on the beach and watching the sunset. The further I’m removed from my last adventure, the stronger the itch gets. 

So yeah, I broke down and already got a plane ticket back to Kauai for October. This is happening - again. “Aren’t you tired of this trail yet?” is a question I’ve heard more than once. (Valid question, as I’m now approaching having conquered the trail 10 times…) And I’m asking myself the same question. Why is it that I can’t get enough of this trail?

The physical challenge

Finishing the 11-mile Kalalau trail, especially in one day, is a little bit like a marathon. It’s long and it’s grueling. But then there are the mind-boggling views. And the endorphins. And the excitement of walking into camp after having fought the weather, the mud, the heat, and the elements. I suspect it’s similar to why many marathon runners also keep racing. Despite the pain, there’s the runner’s high and the attraction of the physical challenge, combined with the delight of the accomplishment. So maybe this trail is like a super-beautiful marathon.

Doing this hike means pushing your body and testing its limits. But beyond the sheer physicality of it, it’s also overcoming the environment and conditions that make it an adventure. Rain, mud, stream crossings, wind, encounters with other hikers or weird characters… they all make it unique and unpredictable every time.

The mental challenge

Pushing yourself physically is one thing, but this trail also challenges you mentally. The seemingly endless ups and downs certainly tax your legs, but it’s your mind that keeps those legs going and going and going.

You’ll be uncomfortable, hot, wet, and exhausted on this hike. It’s your mind that urges you to continue on. When things don’t go as planned and you need to make decisions, you’ll need to be resilient and adaptable. Mental endurance becomes as important as physical stamina.

Being a solo hiker amplifies the mental challenge of this adventure as there are no conversations or other distractions and I’m alone in my head, for days on end. Total immersion. Overcoming fears and inner voices is even more intense when I’m exploring the valley by myself, not only off the beaten path but sometimes off the path altogether.

But somehow, experiencing your mind persevering under these circumstances is where growth happens. 

Jungle astronaut

Once I leave the trailhead behind and go on this journey, I feel myself turning into a ”jungle astronaut”. For the next several days, I only have what I packed in my bag. Every item is hand-selected, scrutinized many times over, weighed, and part of an elaborate packing list. I have what I take and it’ll have to carry me through to the end of the adventure. This includes various possibilities and contingencies. I find this level of independence and self-reliance fascinating. 

While I have now done this trail many times, it still feels like going into the unknown. You never know what circumstances you’re going to encounter and what situation you’ll find yourself in, but you know you’ll deal with it. Because you have to. Until you re-emerge at the trailhead at Ke’e beach and return to civilization.

Camp

There is something very enjoyable about living in camp and by the beach, even if it’s just for a few days, when I can call this ‘home’. People are generally friendly and it’s easy to engage - if and when you want. There is a spirit of camaraderie among all those who have made it this far. But camp is also about quiet solitude if that’s what you seek. 

My favorite part of the day is probably sunset and dinner when I get to sit on the sand, enjoy a meal after a long day, and watch the sky change through infinite shades of orange and red till darkneds slowly falls. The night sky and moonlit beach are a whole other thing to experience.

During the day, between the fog and clouds floating around the edges of the valley and touching the tips of Napali’s spires, the wind, the sun, and the dynamic scenery are ever-changing and unique. The sound of the ocean and the waves always provides a soothing backdrop.

With just a small pack and a few square feet on the beach to call my own for a few days, life is primitive and sparse. At the same time, I have all I need, including a waterfall shower to rinse off the sweat.

Life unplugged

Away from civilization in this remote beach paradise, life happens without cell coverage, emails, and notifications. It’s about unplugging and immersing yourself in this unique environment and experience. A few days of digital detox which allow you to reconnect with yourself and once again hear the words of your own quiet inner voice which normally get drowned out by the noise of modern life. In Kalalau, life once again is in the moment, in the here and now.

There’s a solid body of research showing that time in nature is benefitial for stress relief and mental well-being - even in small dozes. Imagine what a few days of this can do! This may be related to biophilia as humans are innately drawn to natural settings. Kalalau certainly triggers this response in me.

Valley fever

The Kalalau Valley - which quite a few hikers never go to explore! - is a fascinating and mysterious place. Its history goes back hundreds, if not thousands, of years. From the early Hawaiians to lepers hiding from the government in the late 1800s, there is so much history here. And then there are the hippies, squatters, and outlaws who hid away from society. Between the secret gardens, caches, hidden signs, abandoned camps, faint trails, and remote falls and pools, there is so much to explore and discover here among varied types of topographies and faunas. It feels like and is a very remote place that few humans ever have the privilege of visiting and exploring. 

The ancient Hawaiians revered Kalalau as a sacred place and being immersed in its raw and awe-inspiring beauty certainly explains why.

Adventure

Undeniably, completing a few days on this trail is a true adventure. There’s no predicting exactly what will happen and every time is different and unique. Weather, trail conditions, stream levels, weird and fun characters along the way, surprises and mishaps, and valley experiences make each and every time unforgettable.

Between the adrenaline of the trail, the boar, the valley, and the endorphins of the mesmerizing views and sunsets on the beach, this place tends to give my brain everything it’s been looking for. It’s one of those few opportunities to leave the safe cocoon of modern and civilized society and do something extraordinary in the wild.

The long way home

The hike back to the trailhead is often bittersweet. On the one hand, there is no denying the comforts of a warm shower and a cold drink with freshly prepared food. On the other hand, every step takes me further away from the place I know I will miss within just hours of leaving it behind.

As I make my way back, I tend to reflect on the adventures of the last few days, the people I’ve met, and the challenges I’ve overcome. It is always a privilege, a hard-earned one at that, to have spent time in Kalalau. 

Once I pass Hanakapiai, it’s always amusing to encounter all the trail “tourists” in their little shorts, maybe a waterbottle in hand, and white sneakers - still (mostly) clean. I - on the other hand - look gross, dirty, and like I fought a war somewhere in the jungle (which is not entirely untrue). I start noticing the whiff of fragrant sunscreen or summer perfume as I pass the day hikers. I realize that the scent I drag behind me is probably not as pleasant. But it’s like a badge of honor.

Once at Ke’e Beach, my typical routine involves flagging down a day hiker to take a picture of me at the trailhead. More often than not, a short conversation ensues in which I get to proudly proclaim that I just spent x days “out there in the jungle”. A few years ago, I was on the other end of such a conversation which is where my curiosity and my own Kalalau adventure ultimately started.

The days on the trail always serve as some kind of mental reset for me. I tend to look at my life and modern society with its conveniences differently and experience all the things I had taken for granted in a new way. Kalalau changes you.

Hiking the Kalalau trail is a somewhat addictive experience that makes me feel alive. I can’t quite put my finger on it, but there’s something about the convergence of the mental & physcal challenge, nature immersion in this amazing place, simplicity, and unplugged solitude that makes me come back time and again. 

It lures me in with … can I do this again? In a different month? Can I shave more weight from my gear? What can I improve? What will it be like next time? What new places can I uncover in the valley?

Having a Kalalau adventure to look forward to is the only way not to feel the itch. It also helps me focus my training and gives my exercise a purpose.

So yeah, I’m doing this again. I kinda have to. As long as I can make it happen and my body can handle it, I would be a fool to waste the opportunity. Life is short and not guaranteed, so the pilgrimage to Kalalau is my way of honoring that fact. (Or, to quote my all-time favorite TV show LOST: “We have to go back!”)

My 90 day permit window opens at 3 AM the day after tomorrow. And I’m ready…